Obama’s Seed Money
February 6, 2009
What’s in it for America’s farms?
How farm and food programs will—and won’t—benefit from the President’s $825 billion plan.
“As members of Congress struggle to get their arms around the $825 billion economic stimulus plan passed through the House last week and currently being debated in the Senate, a report from the Congressional Research Service sheds light on how farmers and rural communities might be “stimulated” by the first round of spending.” Written by Sam Hurst.
Plus: Chocolate recipes for Valentine’s Day
from Gourmet
DB notes: The manner in which American farms have been propped up by government spending, welfare, and subsidy is byzantine and capricious. That the first in the nation presidential caucus takes place in Iowa has been no help for the American farmer.
***
Next on Take 2: Kimsooja, Korean artist.
Let Food Bring You Joy
January 21, 2009
I like a peanut butter, mayo, and cucumber sandwich as much as the next man with nothing in his pantry, but other times, I mean, c’mon.
“It’s not like you have to stock your pantry with this kind of stuff. As a financial mortal, mine is full of bright blue boxes of supermarket pasta and three-buck cans. But here’s the thing: In the case of spaghetti and tomato sauce, you can spend very little money and have your thousand-and-first plate of something banal, or you can spend some more and have its platonic ideal. Something you will pay attention to, something you’ll concentrate on for all its nuances of texture and flavor, something you might remember for the rest of your life. Something for which to invite three of your best friends over, so that they will remember it for the rest of their lives. Twenty-five bucks doesn’t sound like very much when I think of it that way.” Written by Francis Lam.
THE PLATONIC IDEAL OF SPAGHETTI AND TOMATO SAUCE
Serves 4; takes maybe 15 minutes, most of it standing around
1 28-oz can of Miracoli di San Gennaro tomatoes
1 500-gram box of Pasta Latini Spaghetti Classico
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
Salt and pepper
Sugar, maybe
A chunk of the best Parmigiano-Reggiano you can get your hands on
· Boil water, at least a gallon of it. Yes, that much. And make it taste as salty as the sea.
· Put your oil and garlic in a cold pan and over low heat. You want a nice long infusion without browning the garlic.
· Meanwhile, purée the tomatoes and their juice in a food processor, or use a food mill if you’re the rustic-fancy type.
· When you can smell the garlic and it’s just turning golden around the edges, pour in the tomatoes. Now crank up the heat and bring it to a boil, then turn it down to a healthy simmer, and season the tomato mixture to taste with salt and pepper. A touch of sugar will bring out the tomatoes’ sweetness. Cook it, partially covered, until the puddles of tomato juice cook off the surface and you’re left with a thickened purée. It took me ten minutes. Maybe it’ll take you more, or less.
· Cook your pasta in your viciously boiling salty water. Stir it right away, and marvel at how quickly it wilts in the water and coils around your spoon, not like supermarket spaghetti that sticks straight up out of the pot for minutes.
· When is your pasta done? There are times on the box, so take a look. But do this: Taste it. Keep sticking your spoon in there. Is it still a little white in the middle? Try again in 20 seconds. Does it stick in your teeth? Try again in 20 seconds. Is it just hinting at sticking in your teeth? Good. Take a couple spoonfuls of your pasta water and splash it in your tomatoes; the starch will make the sauce and the pasta like each other. Strain your pasta and toss it with the sauce in the pan and divide into bowls.
· Grate some Parmigiano on top, finish with a little more olive oil, and get ready to remember this moment.
from Gourmet
___________________________________________________________________________________
DB notes: Still might be simpler to work with fresh tomatoes and garlic and bottom of the larder wine.
___________________________________________________________________________________
Beyond the Sushi Joint
January 13, 2009
A quick fix.
6 eight-ounce sea bass filets; salt and pepper to taste; flour as needed
6 tablespoons olive oil; 3 tablespoons scallions, sliced; 3 tablespoons garlic, sliced
3 ounces white wine; 3 tablespoons butter; 2 tablespoons lemon juice; 3 ounces fish stock
Season bass with s & p. Dredge bass lightly in flour and brown in olive oil in a hot skillet on both sides. Place fish in a roasting pan just large enough to hold them. Add remaining ingredients around the fish in roasting pan. Place fish in a 400-degree oven and roast for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and place fish on a serving platter. Spoon sauce around fish and serve. Serves 6. Recipe by John Carver.
from Texas Monthly
Ideas for Tough Times
January 7, 2009
Cue the cuke.
“Are cucumbers more like oysters or mussels. CoPowdered foie gras? Old hat. Cooked cucumber? That’s truly avant-garde.” Written by Matthew Amster-Burton.
from Gourmet
In Your Mouth
January 2, 2009
You don’t say.
“2009 Food & Travel Predictions”
“Let’s get this out of the way: With the economic downturn likely to continue through much of 2009, home cooking, of course, will be hot, so we’ll continue to see a rise in demand for easy, comforting recipes” A slideshow.
from Gourmet
Bublik, Baranki, Shuski
December 22, 2008
From the Department of Breakfast.
“A Short History of the Bagel”
“It is unclear when the first bagels made their way to the United States, but 70 bakeries existed on the Lower East side by 1900..” Written by Joan Nathan.
from Slate
